Trulli houses, Alberobello

We left early the next morning and took the train back up to Bari where we obtained to the keys to a very basic Citroën. It was not the mint coloured Fiat we were hoping for….

fiat

but it was awesome! Hot, delayed trains would be no more, replaced with air-conditioned, nail biting high speeds and constant dangerous overtaking. We stopped along the way to visit Alberobello and the trulli houses. The weather was super hot so after a quick walk around and a gelato to cool off we headed off to our destination for the next 2 days, Matera.

Matera

Lessons from Polignango a Mare not learnt, we still didn’t have phone or internet credit and spent hours trying to find some wifi to contact our host. Stopping at a bar for a Campari on ice would fix this, and we were on our way to our next apartment, eclectically decorated and surprisingly cool in spite of the oppressive heat. We spent our time cooking up local delicacies and checking out the incredible architecture and scenery.

Dei Siriti

An Eco Resort, on sale. This was going to be amazing! Or not. Impossible to find due to the place not having an actual address, and being represented completely differently in the photos than in reality, we were in for a disappointing 2 night stay. Driving around aimlessly where we thought the resort would be we were lucky enough to spot a sign with an arrow facing towards what seemed like nowhere. After driving for a km or so we knew we were on the right (or wrong) track.

DSC04472

The place was incredibly awkward. We were welcomed into the ‘eco’ resort with incredibly loud generators surrounding the reception area and a dog drinking from the heavily chlorinated pool that was unavailable for use without a swimming cap. At 4pm each day a bunch of teenagers would gather around the pool to perform a choreographed dance to some ridiculous song. It would’ve been funny if it wasn’t so woeful. All was not lost though, we found the answer in a car trip that took us hours away to the beautiful, warm beaches of Calabria. It was a long day of intense driving for Jaymin. Being 1 of 2 cars overtaking at the same time in opposite directions was definitely a highlight but by this stage he was an expert Italian driver. The day was dotted with stops at random beaches that all turned out to be beautiful, crystal clear and refreshing, finishing in Caminia which made the long day of driving well worth it.

Safe to say we weren’t too sad to leave and we got up early and headed back east to Lecce, checking into the Masseria Costarella for 3 nights where we were treated to traditional breakfasts each morning by our very accommodating hosts. We used this as our base for even more beach hopping including Otrantro and a place a little further south where we went swimming off the rocks.

Evenings were spent under the stars with home-cooked meals made from ingredients picked straight from the garden each day and local produce acquired from the grocer down the road. We were entertained with games of scrabble and our adopted family of kitties. On our last day our hosts gifted us with a book about the Salento area and some homemade crafts rounding out our stay with warm memories and promises to return.

T & J