So long Croatia!

Writing this almost 3 months after the fact, back in Perth, we have the most wonderful memories of our travels from the next portion of our journey, Italy. It was completely unplanned but maybe the lure of good coffee, wine and cheese had too strong of a pull to consider any other path. Knowing that we were taking an overnight ferry, which struck fear into every cell of my body meant that our last day in Croatia would be filled with copious amounts of alcohol including a vast array of cheap cocktails. Pushing off into the great, wide Adriatic sea I was extremely happy to find our cabin above water level. Watching Croatia whittle away in the distance while night fell, it was time to bunker down and get through the night knowing that land was nowhere in sight. Arriving early in the morning we stepped off the ferry and into the welcoming arms of Italy, hauling our butts and backpacks to the nearest café to indulge in the first of many espressos and croissants for breakfast.

Rocca San Giovanni

There could have been no surer way to solidify the redirection to Italy as being the perfect choice than staying with Nico & Pietro in San Giovanni. A couple of trains and a few hours from where the ferry dropped us in Ancona we arrived at San Vito Lanciano where Pietro picked us up and drove us along the coast, through vineyards, up a hill and to our home for the next 3 days. It was such an incredibly calming environment and the apartment was decorated to perfection, painted in whites and aquas, chandeliers contrasted with rustic furniture, bookshelves filled with Italian books and a patio overlooking a postcard of tranquility. We were provided with a breakfast hamper each morning that was so extensive and indulgent that we didn’t even need to leave the property to eat or buy a thing (what else to expect from 2 chefs?). We went to swim in the warm pebbled beach only once as we found ourselves drawn back to our home amongst the vineyards and olive trees where we wiled away the days reading, playing scrabble, planning the rest of our journey and colouring in our newly purchased colouring in book. Nico & Pietro’s hospitality was incredible, particularly noticed when they popped down one evening with a pitcher of mojito. Who could resist? The weather was warm, but not unbearable and the air was calm and fragrant, and we were excited to be in Italy.

Polignano a Mare

No better end to a torturous day of 3 delayed trains taken in extreme heat and stifled communications with our next airbnb host due to our lack of wifi access, than arriving at my absolute favourite place on our Italian journey, Polignano a Mare. It was next level perfection. Glassy water smashing against cliffs filled with quaint homes and beautiful hotels and restaurants, an old town that set the bar so high for any of the many other ‘centro historico’s that we visited and a beautiful home to rest our heads for the 2 short nights that we were there. Claudia met our weary selves out the front of her beautiful home and led us to our garden apartment, garnished in crisp white furnishings and nautically themed decorations, opening out into a tree filled courtyard. She provided us with a customised map referencing all of the essential bars, restaurants, gelaterias and attractions. We rested, donned our Sunday best and set off for arguably one of the best dining experiences we’ve ever had. Jaymin had researched where we should eat and I had another place in mind, so ensued a little argument as both establishments featured on Claudia’s map of highlights.

I wanted to go here…(photo courtesy of google!)

Reviews were so so, it was an expensive place to dine, service was allegedly average and so to the cuisine. I allowed myself to give in to Jaymin who was heavily influenced by trip advisor reviews and we headed out to Mint, the #1 rated restaurant. The food was right up my alley, predominantly vegetarian with vegan and raw options and an endless flow of Prosecco. We received impeccable service from Liu, one of the owners, who, an architect, had decorated the space in such a way I spent the entire night taking photos for inspiration. We had such an enjoyable evening enjoying every morsel of food, drink and atmosphere and when Liu’s partner, Fabrizio presented us his passionfruit cheesecake in person we closed the restaurant out, talking and being inspired to open our own version of Mint on the Canadian side of the world. After dinner we wandered the alleys of the old city, drawn into an art exhibition where it became absolutely essential we purchase a print that surprisingly made it back to Australia after 6 flights, housed in a makeshift triangular vessel, almost being left behind too many times to mention.

Polignano was an absolute minx of a city, it couldn’t step a foot wrong. After our fabulous first night we spent the next morning at the stunning cliff engulfed (and painfully rocky!) beach, ate lunch high above the water and sampled local delicacies for dinner (from the not a word of English speaking grocer down the road) out in our courtyard. We took a final walk through the old city and prepared ourselves to wake up to a new day, a day in which we would once again have wheels.

T & J